7 Days Mount Kenya Technical Climb Batian Chogoria – Sirimon

Batian (5,199m) via the North Face Standard Route

Chogoria Approach – Sirimon Exit.

Mount Kenya offers one of Africa’s finest alpine rock-climbing experiences. This 7-day Mount Kenya technical climbing tour is designed for experienced climbers aiming to summit Batian (5,199m). Batian is the highest peak of Mount Kenya and the second-highest peak in Africa. This expedition will follow the classic North Face Standard Route to the peaks.

The program combines the dramatic scenery of the Chogoria Route, proper acclimatization, a full technical summit day, and descent via the Sirimon Route. A spare summit day is included to increase the expedition’s success rate in case of bad weather.

Day 1: Nairobi – Chogoria Gate – Mount Kenya Bandas (2,900m)

Pick up from Jomo Kenyatta International Airport or your Nairobi hotel in the morning. We drive approximately 3–4 hours to Chogoria town on the eastern side of the mountain.

After park registration, we use a 4x4 vehicle to transfer to the start point of our Mount Kenya trekking and rock-climbing adventure. The hike begins with a trek through dense montane forest and bamboo zone before reaching the open heathland.

We arrive at Mount Kenya Bandas (2,900m) for dinner and an overnight stay.

Hiking time: 2–3 hours

Elevation gain: approx. 600–700m

Day 2: Mount Kenya Bandas – Lake Ellis – Nithi Waterfall – Roadhead Camp (11 km, 3,300m, 6 hours)

After breakfast, we trek through scenic moorland, enjoying expansive views of Mugi Hill and Ithanguni. If the weather permits it, Batian and Nelion may be visible in the distance.

This day offers two walking options depending on your preference:

Option 1: Roadhead First – Waterfall – Lake Ellis Loop

We hike directly to Roadhead Camp (3,300m). After settling in, we walk approximately 1.5 km to visit the spectacular Nithi Waterfall, which plunges into a dramatic gorge below.

From there, we continue toward Lake Ellis (3,450m) for panoramic views before returning to Roadhead for dinner and overnight.

Option 2: Lake Ellis First – Return for Lunch – Afternoon Waterfall Visit

We trek first to Lake Ellis, enjoying the peaceful alpine scenery. After spending time at the lake, we descend back to Roadhead Camp for lunch and rest.

In the afternoon, we visit Nithi Waterfall before returning to camp for dinner and overnight.

Both options allow proper acclimatization and highlight Chogoria’s most beautiful features.

Hiking time: 5–6 hours

Highest altitude: 3,450m

Sleeping altitude: 3,300m

Day 3: Roadhead – Minto’s Camp (4,200m)

After breakfast, we ascend steadily through the breathtaking Gorges Valley, one of Mount Kenya’s most scenic sections.

Along the way, we enjoy views of:

• The Temple
• Lake Michaelson (far below in the valley)
• Giant’s Billiard Table
• The main peaks ahead

As the altitude gain becomes more noticeable, we walk at a slower pace and prioritize hydration and acclimatization.

Overnight stay at Minto’s Camp (4,200m).

Hiking time: 6–7 hours

Elevation gain: approx. 900m

Day 4: Minto’s Camp – Point Lenana (4,985m) – Shipton’s Camp (4,200m)

We begin the day with an early morning ascent to Point Lenana (4,985m) for acclimatization and sunrise views. Although Pt Lenana is the Mt Kenya’s trekking summit, today it serves as preparation for the technical climb.

From Lenana, we descend via the northwest side into Mackinder’s Valley to reach Shipton’s Camp (4,200m).

Afternoon activities:

• Rest and hydration
• Equipment check
• Technical briefing
• Meeting the technical climbing guide (if separate)

Overnight stay at Shipton’s Camp.

Hiking time: 6–8 hours

High point: 4,985m

Sleep altitude: 4,200m

Day 5: Shipton’s Camp – Batian (5,199m) – Return to Shipton’s

Technical Climbing Day

Alpine start between 4:00 – 5:00 AM under headlamps.

The North Face Standard Route is a multi-pitch alpine rock climb (approximately UIAA IV+/V, around 5.7 YDS).

Route features include:

• Initial couloir section
• The Amphitheatre
• Firmin’s Tower (crux section)
• Exposed summit ridge
• Final summit block of Batian (5,199m)

Climbing time is typically 8–12 hours round-trip, depending on pace and conditions.

After summiting Mount Kenya, we descend via abseil and down-climbing back to Shipton’s Camp for dinner and overnight.

Day 6: Spare Summit Day / Descent to Old Moses Camp (3,300m)

This day provides flexibility in case of weather and improves the chances of summit success.

Therefore, we’ll have two potential scenarios;

1. If the Batian summit was successful on Day 5

We descend via Mackinder’s Valley and the Sirimon Route to Old Moses Camp (3,300m).

Hiking time: approx. 5 hours.

2. If the weather prevented the summit attempt

We use this day for a second summit attempt.

Overnight at Shipton’s or descend afterward, depending on our timing.

*Including a spare day increases overall safety and summit success rate.

Day 7: Old Moses – Sirimon Gate – Nairobi

After breakfast, we descend gently through moorland and forest to Sirimon Gate (2,650m).

Our trek and rock-climbing adventure on Mount Kenya concludes as we meet the vehicle and transfer back to Nairobi, arriving in the late afternoon.

Hiking time: 2–3 hours

Drive time: approx. 4 hours

End of the Mount Kenya technical expedition.

Technical Requirements

This climb is suitable for:

• Climbers with previous multi-pitch experience
• Comfortable climbing at 5.7 (YDS)
• Good physical fitness and altitude tolerance.

Equipment

Climbers must bring:

• Harness
• Helmet
• Climbing shoes
• Belay device
• Personal technical clothing

Group technical gear provided:

• Ropes
• Protection
• Anchors

Best Season

• January – March
• July – October